Site list/GPS fixes
1974, 1975, 1976, 1977,
1979, 1982, 1983, 1985,
1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
The Battle of
Expedition log, Summer 2003
A summary and index of the Speleogroup logbook.
Andinas, Bulnes, Trumbio, Viango, Cueva Negra, High Picos
||Bill just misses his flight from Milan, but re-routes through Barcelona and still arrives in Bilbao an hour before Mike (who travels via CDG). We drive the hired Citroen Xsara directly to Llanes (with a stop for a snack in San Vicente), arriving around 18:00. Wanderered around the town for the evening, noting new buildings, etc. Supper in Rte. Covadonga; paella for both then sardinas for Mike and chuleta con queso (Cabrales sauce) for Bill.
||Bill’s birthday! Breakfast at 08:30 then an early start at 9 for the Andinas area (see log for 22 June 2002).
First scouted tracks from the ‘main road’ for ways up to the depression
shown on the map; the track we chose had an easy cement surface and
the Citroen behaved admirably.
After 3km we parked the car just beyond a cattle grid. The view
into the depression was unencouraging, however – no sign of a stream
although we had found a resurgence the other side of the saddle in
Depression above Andinas
Well, we had better make our exploration thorough, so we first proceeded
up-valley – due West – looking at further depressions. Many had
tell-tale clumps of trees but no cave at the bottom; most promising
is the westernmost, at N43°21′03″ W4°34′41″.
Using radios for communication, we split up to circle around and
into the major, lower, depression. Obstacles included barbed wire
and feisty cows and bullocks. Alas the final “sink”, at the usual
clump of trees (Δ) was totally blocked
by mud and brambles. The 8.6km of walking raised a fine appetite;
so on to lunch in La Hermida @ 13:00. Sopa montañes and Cabrales
de Treviso for Bill, chuletillas for Mike. Peña Prieta (tinto)
Drove up to Bejes but the bar was closed. Found a very steep cement
“quad” sidetrack going up to 860m.
Refreshments in Panes before driving up to Suarias and then to Cabañuca
(following a very slow lorry all the way, passed 100m before
the cave’s depression), locating the cave with the new GPS at N43°18′12″ W4°34′13″. Alas, while taking the 60-second measurement,
our retreat was cut off because the lorry had dumped its load of
grit onto the road – between us and Suarias! We drove back in the
other direction to find a large wooden stick, then returned to the
gravel heap and laboriously dug our way through; back to Llanes via
Unquera around 18:45.
The rest of the evening spent selecting a suitable restaurant and
menu for Bill’s birthday dinner. Eventually decided on the “U-shaped
one” in the alley (Casa Canene); Merluza a la Romano for Bill,
Escalope for Mike; Rosada.
||First destination El Mazuco from the west, after first predicting the position of the shrine (Ermita del Santo Ángel) at the junction where the village road leaves the ‘main’ road (prediction: Δ).
On the way, stopped at Caldueñín to check water level (normal),
try red and cyan lights (red seemed better), and note location (see
site locations list for GPS coordinates). Then to El
Mazuco and Fresno to check the pitch and note the location of the
latter. Bill takes a picture of Belugo entrance; the road from the
village towards Fresno is being rebuilt.
By now the 150m error at El Mazuco junction had been determined to
be due to using the wrong datum (the GPS device default is WGS84).
On correcting to EUR50 coordinates the position matched within a
[Note: GPS readings on this website are EUR50; links to worldwide
maps automatically use WGS84 – for more details, see the Coordinate systems page.]
On to Arenas for an excellent lunch at the restaurant with the triangular
dining room (at the major junction); [Restaurante Café Cares].
Whilst passing through Posada that morning, we noticed a road sign
indicating “Funicular” at Poncebos, and this was our next objective.
It turned out to be a new underground railway rising 400m and providing
the only access to Bulnes other than a steep footpath. €15
(each) lighter we covered the 2km in 7 minutes (narrowly avoiding
the down-coming carriage) in the company of many teenage hikers.
We walked up to and around Bulnes which is now recovering economically
(i.e., there’s a restaurant and several bars!).
Nothing much of speleological interest. Fortified with excellent
Cabrales cheese de Bulnes and two tintos, we were inspired to
walk all the way down the gorge, even though we had return tickets.
Spectacular! Much easier down than up on the narrow path.
On the way back, we crossed the bridge to Allende/Los Callejos, and
drove up the track towards La Montaña Mágica, looking
for a good route to Cueva Samoreli. The best track
is on the right before Allende from the car parking spot (at Δ) and leads directly to within 50m of Samoreli.
The hayfield in front of Samoreli is now completely overgrown with
brambles so Bill descends Pozo del Molino, takes photos, and does
through trip with a red 1W Luxeon LED light.
Back to Llanes and eventually the same restaurant as 2 July.
Headed east past Tinganón and found the new road open, so through
the tunnel, across the Río Sella, pass close above La Cuevona,
and U-turn onto the older roads, then stop for a break in Cangas.
Then up to K4 on the road to the lakes, with an early stop to locate
and look at the Gueyu Reinazo resurgence Δ.
From K4 it is but a short walk around a small hill to the depression
and entrance of Trumbio, last visited in 1979 and
still an impressive cave. The main purpose of the visit was for
testing our LED lamps
in real cave conditions.
On up into the clouds to typically misty lakes (see picture at right),
for lunch. The green tarpaulins are now replaced by a brand-new
bar, which lacks much of the charm of the original. After lunch
we attempt to get lost in the mist (to test the GPS), but fail miserably
as there is now a generator at the bar giving an audible ±5°
fix for at least 1km.
Bill & brunette
Still enthusiastic, we return down out of the clouds, then head east.
First take a loop south of the Cangas-Posada road, west of Benia,
to look at the cave and resurgence near a caving/exploration school.
Then, having spotted a depression on the map right next to the track
due south of Benia, we head up the track. Bill, having dry boots
(at the time), headed off down into the depression and streamway,
while Mike manned ‘base station’.
The grass was long and wet and a few drops of rain were falling.
Soon the meadow terminated in trees but there were evident paths
down following the dry bed of a stream. Quite suddenly the way became
quite steep and the dry streamway dropped dry cascaade steps of 1–2m.
The cave, “El Peruyal”, is a 20m × 10m entrance in a cliff face
Δ with about 100m of big walking passage.
||Destination Cueva de la Yosa del Viango, first visited in 2001; dry at the coast, overcast in the Sierra. The track up from
Purón is now complete, so we were able to drive up almost to Pruneda
and parked the car Δ, then headed west
up the valley. The first speleological feature of note on the walk
to Viango is the Fuente Grande (1.4km from the car Δ), which is a resurgence with 1m × 1m and a fair size stream
giving a very wet passage which might ‘go’ (too wet to explore in
walking gear). Fuente Chica proved elusive.
On to the pass (Collado la Raiz, almost exactly 3km from the
Δ) over fairly rough going, reaching it
after about 2 hours from the start, including the resurgence stops.
A short descent and pleasant walk for a further 2km took us to the
entrance of the cave Δ, despite Mike gashing
his hand on a Silva compass. The cave entrance is behind a line
of trees (on the left of the open vega in the photo), among ‘sand
dunes’ and grass.
Viango from Collado la Raiz
Once in the cave, three routes were explored (see sketch from the log). First the two obvious rifts (straight ahead
at the entrance, and at the bottom of a 1m climb/chimney) were explored.
One ended in a gravel/sand choke, the other in a small chamber.
Viango cave entrance
The best route, however, proved to be under the daylight aven and
across a pile of sticks and rubbish. After a low rifty muddy section,
this leads into a good-sized chamber with sand banks and side passages,
one an aven/inlet with a fine echo.
Under a low arch, an easy-to-miss sand crawl leads from there to
another sandy-floored chamber which winds on for 25m+
and ends in a deep clear pool (no obvious way on at that point).
To the left before the pool is a 4m climb with a fixed rope (possibly
leading to a bypass). Not having SRT gear at this point (and the
rope being attached to only a single bolt), we declared the cave
‘done’. All-in-all somewhat more than we expected and worthwhile.
Other than the rope, there was no evidence of previous exploration
as presumably water backs up in the winter and removes any footprints,
LED Lamps were tested under full caving conditions on this trip;
Bill on red Luxeon 1W, and Mike on his white Luxeon 1W Star/O (ATtiny-a); both performed well, with plenty of light for the cave.
One mod suggested: on first ON, lamp should go to full power over
a few seconds in case a caver is looking directly at it.
Mike in Viango cave
On exit from the cave the mist had turned to drizzle, most of which
evaporated as we walked, but it was a long slog back to the car.
Lunch was sorely missed. (Times: left car at ~11:15, back at 17:15;
about 2:15 up and 2 hours down, the rest in the cave.)
A new bar had been noticed on the road outside Purón, so a large
plate of queso (+pan y vino, all for €6.60) was rapidly demolished. Back to Llanes for dinner at
the newly re-opened “restaurant across the bridge”.
||A walk/Llanes/recovery day; Mike walks along the cliffs from Paseo San Pedro to Poo, where an extremely serious game of 10-pin bowling (approx.) was in progress. After observing this for a while, back to Llanes for lunch of an excellent merluza a la plancha at La Marina restaurant in the port. Lazy afternoon writing up the log.
(Clouds over the mountains as usual. Sun in morning then cloudy.)
||A reconnaissance day, investigating three areas:
- Nieda (south and just east of Cangas de Onís); promising depressions
south of Següencu proved uninteresting
- Further south to Amieva; drove to the hydro-electric plant, hoping
to find a good route down to the Dobra gorge (unsuccessful). Then
a good walk up the track to size the stream from Cueva Ozania (rather
- Viegu → Beleño → Prieca → Santillán loop (with a rustic
lunch of Fabada » in Beleño). Mostly non-limestone
with a few high-level entrances/cow shelters. A couple of possible
resurgences proved false.
Back to Llanes then dinner at Casa Poli (Puertas de Vidiego) – very
pleasant and surprisingly busy for a Monday.
Although the weather was bright in Llanes, over the Sierra de Cuera
was thick cloud. So we settle on a trip to the infamous Cueva Negra. Took the car up the same track beyond Santianes that we
explored in 2002, but shortly after it deteriorated,
forcing a boring reverse to a parking spot near the mill (Ariba)
at Δ, just 55m above sea level.
Cueva Negra entrance
We left the car at 11:15 and proceeded up the steep track at a rapid
rate in bright sun/cloud. Good views of the Tinganón upper-entrance
depression, and noted a secondary depression SE of Tinganón which
could provide the stream for the Tinganón inlet.
In our enthusiam, we deliberately overshot the spectacular entrance
to Cueva Negra in an attempt to orient ourselves with our exploits
of 2002. However we were unable to recognize any feature for certain,
and eventually decided that the next depression would be “too far”.
Down to Negra. The entrance is over 10m high, obscured in minor
part by trees. Usual cows and goats in the entrance, but less “byre”
(cowsh) than expected. We turn back at the 3m pitch (no gear) after
giving the LED lamps some more tests amd taking some photos.
Bill in Cueva Negra
Checked out the supposed Tinganón feeder on the way back, but the
promising cliff face revealed no cave. Back at the car at 15:15
– a good 4 hour walk & cave with GPS record.
There appears to be no bar in Santianes, but we stopped soon after
on the main road at a cheap hotel-restaurant for a cool beer.
Using the GPS as a guide we set about looking for the “Madre del
Río” resurgence to the Negra system. We did locate the Bahrua(?)
hostel and spoke to the owner who remembered Frank Nicholson and
Liverpool students. MdR, she said, was to be found 500m further
west at the foot of the (now) Eucalyptus woods (we didn’t find it),
and possible further abandoned resurgence entrance higher in the
woods. Snack in Purón, dinner at Terraza in Llanes.
||Back west to look for the ‘Madre del Río’ resurgence again, this time from the south-east of
the building site for the new industrial park. Eventually found
it below the hillside, in a valley filled with 2+ m-high bracken.
The water bubbles up through impenetrable gravel at N43°26′06″ W5°00′13″.
Mike then (foolishly? heroically?) did a traverse through the Eucalyptus
forest above, below a possible cliff face. After testing the load-bearing
attributes of a 10cm Eucalyptus log (failed under 60kg load, depositing
said 60kg load into bramble bushes), and much thrashing about in
brambles and gorse, declared very little chance of anything of speleological
interest. We also investigated other possible resurgence sites,
(possibly older exits) further east, finding just one, at Δ. Lunch of wild boar stew and bonito/anchoas
Over lunch we discussed three possibilities for the afternoon’s excursion.
The peaks seemed hazy so we dismissed the Funicular to Bulnes. The
initial path to Caín was steep and in the time available we would
never reach Caín (and bar!). So we decided to drive up towards
Sotres guided by speleological features on the map.
We were delighted to find that the old landrover track above Sotres
had been tarmaced so we proceeded up to the spectacular pass (Cda
Barreda) at 1317m. At this altitude there were many grassy hillocks,
not just bare limestone – quite good for walking.
We drove slowly down from the pass towards Tresviso with dramatic
views of the mountains above and the valley below. Bar for obligatory
tinto and cerveza and to admire the photo of Cueva del Agua
Sheep and karst near Tresviso
Tresviso is the end of the road, so back up to the pass and down
to the lower pass (Colláu La Cabellar, 2km west of the 1300m
pass) and noted caves marked on the map. After 15 minutes walk we
found the larger (shown as (8) on the map, Torca Labarga, 361m deep)
and explored the large entrance 4m high leading to a steeply descending
vadose passage 15m high (with avens leading to daylight). Turned
back at the top of pitch > 5m deep; the cave continues into a chamber.
When then split up, using radios for communication, to check out
depressions and contour back to the road by different routes. Mike
finds a further deep depression just below the entrance just explored
(but no evidence of cave). Bill retraces steps then contours above
for a view of the big valley (and track) and said depression.
Drive back to Llanes for a much-needed shower before going to the
sidrería Cabañón in Naves for sidra, Rioja (Muga),
and raciones or chuletillas, queso, chorizo criollo,
lacón con patatas...
| A look at the clouds over the Sierra de Cuera seemed to be
at odds with the weather forecast of sun and our plans to ascend
the Fuente Dé cable car. But, as it was our last full day, we
could not postpose the planned trip.
Crags above the mines
As we drove south the weather improved, and there were no queues
at Fuente Dé so we were on the Teléferico at noon. At 1835m
it was only slightly cooler. As in 2000, we proceeded
north over the saddle in the direction of the Refugio de Áliva, but
bypassed this bar-restaurant by contouring around a rough footpath
towards the mines (the Minas de las Mánforas at about 1550m
– mines for blenda, zinc ore).
The mine buildings and spoil area are popular with herbivores, as
are the cool mine entrances!
We entered one such entrance in the limestone and Bill used his cyan
LED lamp to walk through the maze of passages for some 50m. Altitude
Mike inspects a mine
It was now 14:30 and we were feeling hot and hungry. A long walk
up the hill took us to the Refugio de Áliva at 1666m (Δ), where washing our hands in spring-cold water was an especial
pleasure. The menú del día was chickpeas and spinach (for
Mike) and ham and melon (for Bill), followed by merluza a la romana
for both. The Rioja was Royal Claret; all, including water, was
Thus refreshed, we returned slowly up to the saddle at 1935m, where
we decided to turn right (NW) towards Hoyo Sin Tierra. We continued
only 500m along the flat before turning back as it was getting late.
Back down to Fuente Dé; stopped at La Hermida for refreshments
then at the Vauclusian spring between Estragüeña and Puentelles
to record its position Δ before return
||A slightly more inland route east than usual: Unquera, El Mazu, stopped to
look at depressions near Otero (pretty, but no caves). SW to Cueva
Toyu to pinpoint location: NE corner of barn (on survey) is at
N43°17′00″ W4°29′04″, alt 203m. Then S and E to Puentenansa
and after a little shopping start looking for lunch.
Found an admirable restaurante in Ruente (fine roast lechazo)
– with, 200m away, the biggest resurgence we have seen in Spain!
Perhaps 2 cumecs (in July!). This is called La Fuentona and
is at N43°15′00″ W4°15′57″ alt 203m; at the bar they
talked about a diver once going in, but not exiting [maybe]. A
brief reconnaissance walk through the hayfields above showed no obvious
river on the surface behind, so some research is needed (Ruente is
only just on our current maps).
On to Castro Urdiales and up into the hills to locate Cubilla Δ and Cueva Lastrilla Δ. Later a light dinner of asparagus, anchovies, russian salad,
||Early start for Bill’s delayed 09:10 flight; Mike’s is at 13:00,
so plenty of time to write up the log...
Personnel: Bill Collis & Mike Cowlishaw.
Other log details:
- Exchange rate: 69p = 1 Euro = 166 pesetas (241 pts/GBP).
- New GPS (Garmin Geko 201), positions in °,′,″ using
European 1979 datum (matching maps in Spanish blue series).
- Notes of LED lamp tests in Trumbio (4 July).
- Sketches of Cueva de la Yosa del Viango
- Additional waypoints to Cueva Negra (8 July).