The Battle of
 El Mazuco

Expedition log, Summer 2001

A summary and index of the Speleogroup logbook.

Cubilla, El Mazuco, Orandi, Viango, Pozo del Infierno, etc.

Date	Activity
19.07	First arrival at the new Bilbao airport. Soon checked-in in Castro Urdiales, then off to the caves to measure and verify altitudes (see log). We soon confirm that the cave previously known in the OUCC logs as Penilla is in fact called Cubilla. Further, on exploration, the survey is misleading: a major inlet series on the right (with Spanish survey mark F7) on entering the cave is missing, and yet sources all the water in the cave – meaning that the main stream is completely unaccounted for. The tufa deposit in the streamway suggests that the stream is indeed derived from inlet(s). Got surprisingly far down the cave (−70m) in ordinary clothes, then back to Castro for a hearty meal.
20.07	On to Llanes (about 2 hours) with a brief stop at San Vincente for Tortilla & Anchovies. Then off to El Mazuco, where the bar owner remembers OUCC visits (1969-71) as a boy. A long, hot, route takes us down to Cueva del Bolugo, a splendid sink complete with rickety bridge and the remains of the generator hut (which generator was famously repaired by OUCC in the old days). On down to Caldueñín to look at the resurgence, then to Cortinas where a friendly local shows us the gated entrance to Nacimiento de Río (key held by Asturagua in Llanes).
21.07	Destination Orandi, above the road to Los Lagos. Parked at the nearest point, and surprised ourselves at reaching the col (El Arniu) Vega de Orandi at 615m sooner than expected. Descended through beech wood, fungi, and cowsh to the delightful blind valley of Orandi (see picture). Failed to find the upstream spring. A wary bull at Orandi entrance (500m), warily skirted. Clambered into the cave, took photos. Back to the car in the heat, then to Ribadesella for an excellent lunch in a new (to us) restaurant (soup, paella, merluza, Manchego, Cabrales...). Back to Llanes; El Retiro for a light dinner. Then on to the Rales fiesta we’d seen advertised earlier. Meet up with old friends (M. José and daughters, Tony, Juan), look at photos, eat chops and sausages.
22.07	Sunday, and Fiesta in Llanes. Impossible to find unbooked table for lunch, so head east, ending up in Ribadesella again. Dinner in Uria, and long walks.
23.07	Big Walk today, to Yosa del Viango. 08:30 start, then to Alto de la Tornería, start walking at 10:00. Two hours slow progress over rough tracks and we reached Viango, and found the cave (amid much sand) at 390m. Explored as far as practical in ordinary clothes (see 2003 for full exploration). Next tested the PMR446 radios in the huge open valley; effective to about 1km. Bill makes friends with a local horse. Headed back to the car, but a short-cut, impeded by mist, turned into a ‘classic’ struggle over rough limestone and grikes. Finally back at the car at 15:30; a very strenous day. Early dinner at Siete Puertas.
24.07	Toyu river entrance (24.07) Reconnaissance to Suarias. Located Cabañuca entrance (305m, see log) then checked out the sink in the adjacent huge depression to see if it had opened up since 1973 (it hadn’t). La Hermida for lunch, then a thorough exploration of the nearby old hotel and spa, with its early 20th century signal and lighting wiring. Then to La Fuente, where sadly the old bar no longer exists. On to Toyu (now signposted Sumidero de Toyo) to relocate and photograph entrances. Back to Llanes for a late dinner.
25.07	This year being the 25th anniversary of Forcau ’76, it was time to head for the mountains. Off to the Lakes (Los Lagos); on arrival, soon spotted some GB caver vehicles, guarded by John Wilcock of 1961 OUCC fame. After a chat, headed south at 12:15. Forcau Entrance Careful map- and compass-work, as the mist came down, got us to Forcau entrance (see picture) at about 14:30. It is exactly where it is shown on the latest maps: down-slope and a little further away from El Forcau (the walking path pass) than the stone walls/pens. Eventually back to Llanes to enjoy 25 minutes of air-raid sirens as a statue was paraded to the church.
26.07	First to a cave, El Cuelebre, near Purón, and explored until too muddy. A walk on La Franca beach, then lunch at recommended Casa Pancho in Puertas de Vidiango (Cecina, chorizo, patatas, good tinto, 900pts). (Just in time, it turned out; it was partly demolished by a lorry a few months later.) Whiled away the rest of the day with walks near Llanes and the slightly disappointing Naves fiesta.
27.07	Now ‘warmed up’ – it’s time for some serious caving. A prompt start and we are soon in the Deva Gorge, at the Coto de El Infierno. Changed at the bottom of the hill, then sweated up through hostile brush, around the ridge, to the entrance of Pozo del Infierno at 264m. Bill in Pozo del Infierno The first muddy ramp, immediately inside the conglomerate entrance, was rigged with an 18m rope, with just 3m to spare. On through a large chamber between two stalagmite bosses and eventually to the top of the second, near-vertical ramp. This is effectively a 10m pitch; we used a 20m rope belayed higher up. Leaving most of our gear at the bottom (see picture) the height just lost is regained via an easy climb on the right. Next is a huge muddy chamber, over 30m high, with mudslides and vast stalagmites. Following the trickle of water leads to the Tubo del Viento, which wasn’t very windy. This is followed by a slightly exposed climb (handline useful) up and on to the Sala del Riu (River Chamber), with a beautiful clear deep blue inlet sump and clean, almost black, rocks. A rope (marked G.E.S. 18,77) hanging into the chamber confirmed the way on (which we climbed in 1975). We had not expected the pitch to be rigged, so had left jammers at the 2nd ramp. Nevertheless satisfied with the progress achieved, we proceeded out. Jammers & footloops were sufficient for the ramps. About 3 hours in the cave; 45 minutes down the hill compared to 90 minutes up.
28.07	A slow day, washing ropes etc. Checked altitudes around El Mazuco. Discovered that Antonio (1973 caver from Rales) now runs a restaurant in Llanes – so, pizza and tacos for supper. Then to the old Talleru (now Abezu) for a Piña Collada; slow to arrive as they had to go next door to get it...
29.07	Inland to Arenas where we inspected cheeses and successfully tracked down a cow bell with just the right sound. Photo tour of Llanes; packing; dinner at Casa Poli in Vidiago.
30.07	East to Castro Urdiales via Vargas. Reconnaissance 4km up track beyond Cubilla to explore a depression near Linares on foot. No open cave, but a secondary sink had a good draught (good dig).
31.07	Drive through hot, humid, and polluted Bilbao to the new airport. Yet again Mike’s caving gear goes AWOL on the way back, arriving the following day. Bill checks out more caves and the Gugenheim museum.

Personnel: Bill Collis & Mike Cowlishaw.

Other log details:
Altitudes of various places and passes, including:

Alto de Tornería	475m
Bar El Mazuco	362
Caldueñín	165
Villa	244
Cortines bridge	130
El Sucón bar	120
Posada	58

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