The Battle of
 El Mazuco

Expedition log, Summer 2001

A summary and index of the Speleogroup logbook.

Cubilla, El Mazuco, Orandi, Viango, Pozo del Infierno, etc.

Date	Activity
19.07	Bill & Mike meet at the (brand new) Bilbao airport as planned, about 15:00. To Castro Urdiales to check in (Hostal Vista Alegre), then off to the caves to measure and verify altitudes (see below). We soon confirm that the cave previously known in the OUCC logs as Penilla is in fact called Cubilla, so all previous write-ups have it wrong! Further, on exploration, the ‘survey’ turned out to be rather misleading: we instantly found a major inlet series on the right after entering the cave (close to the entrance, and with Spanish(?) survey mark F7) – at least 150m of passage with +48m vertical range. There was also no hint that the main passage is steeply descending – a range of 55–70m! So the first day’s caving turned out to be a bit more strenuous than planned – and ordinary clothes were not a good idea (although we got surprisingly far down the cave: −70m). We also noted that the water in the main passage could all be accounted for by the flow from inlets, so it is unlikely to be the main stream rejoining as shown on the survey (which is completely unaccounted for). This is confirmed by the deposit of “tufa” in the streamway, which shows that the water is derived from inlets, not the surface stream. Our limit of exploration was down a white tufa boss to a deep pool; excellent grip made the climb easy. Back to the hotel to clean up, then into Castro for a hearty meal (setas con jamón, chulletillas de cordero, bonito), etc.
20.07	The journey to Llanes on the toll-free autopista is about 2 hours, not including a brief stop at San Vicente de la Barquera for a plate of Tortilla & Anchovies. Checked into Hotel Las Rocas and then off towards El Mazuco via Pareda. Stops to investigate depressions near K6 and to admire the view at Alto de la Tornería. Drink in the El Mazuco bar, where the owner remembers OUCC visits (1969–71) as a boy and confirms that the Cueva de Viango is small. A long route takes us down to Cueva del Bolugo, a splendid sink in a cliff face complete with rickety bridge and the remains of the old generator hut (which generator was famously repaired by OUCC in the old days). The foaming streamway looks very exciting. A direct, even hotter, but not very obvious, route takes us back to the bar and refreshment. Into the car and on down to Caldueñín for a quick photographic trip to the entrance, where the underground river is met almost immediately. Next to Cortinas where a friendly local shows us the gated entrance to Nacimiento de Río (key held by Asturagua in Llanes). Back to Llanes via Posada/Acuario. Dinner (menu del día) at Uria circa 9:30pm (fabada, lomo, truchas).
21.07	Drove to Orandi noticing the poster advertising a fiesta at Rales tonight. We parked in the shade on the busy road up to the lakes (+480m). Vega de Orandi We were surprised at our fast progress up to the saddle which the altimeter confirmed to be 615m and therefore close to the Orandi sink (we were at El Arniu). Down through the beech woods with exotic funghi (and cowsh) to the delightful blind valley of Orandi (see picture). A diversion “upstream” failed to find the higher spring marked on the map. Pretty easy walking at the valley floor level. Down to Orandi entrance (500m) to confront a wary bull, warily skirted. Clambered into the cave, took photos. In flood there are further sinks downstream – all clogged up with mud. The whole valley bottom is a delightful meadow, with a ‘lost valley’ effect as the water sinks at the end. Back to the car in the heat (the uphill thankfully in the woods and thus shaded). Then via Covadonga and Cangas to Ribadesella for an excellent lunch in a new (to us) restaurant (soup, paella, merluza, escallopines). Indulged in some Manchego and Cabrales. Back to Llanes, stoppping at Rales to determine details of the fiesta. Eventually to El Retiro (via Parres, as Llanes through route closed for fiesta) for a light supper of patatas bravas and Cabrales. Then on to Rales. Nobody recognisable at the village square so we move to Ma José’s garden; we looked at the old photographs in the 1973+ album – four of the young men from then are now dead! (Paco, Manslo..., all due to accidents). Maria and daughter Patricia then took us to Tony & Juan’s house where chops & sausages were offered and eaten.
22.07	Sunday, Fiesta de la Magdalena, so the town (Llanes) is packed. Woken by (very) loud maroons. Festering day, the main challenge turns out to be trying to find a restaurant for lunch which is not fully booked. Watched parade of “large corn dollies” then tried some out-of-town restaurants. Eventually ended up at Ribadesella again. Slow return to Llanes via back roads through Rales, and Café Moderno in Posada. Dinner at Uria (tuna omlette, lomo/sardinas), followed by a walk to El Brau and back by the beach road. Centre of town all set up with stalls, music stage, etc. Loud music until well past 4am.
23.07	Breakfast at 8:30 and a drive up to Alto de la Tornería, 463m. Start walking up cemented track at 10:00. This bit was easy! Track suddenly becomes a path at the first saddle. We see the main W–E valley after 20 minutes. As Bill’s gut was playing up rests were frequent! We reached the big flat basin of the Yosa del Viango at 12:00 and we found the Cueva amid trees and cows on the south west side. The whole Yosa is one sand deposit. Surprisingly the cave, at 390m, is open and progress from a large 3m+ entrance leads to the ways on. Above a larger passage leads to a 2m climb (not descended). Down leads to a crawl. Explored length 20m, vertical range 5m [see 2003 for full exploration]. Mike then explored up the S. wall of the valley (as much to test the PMR446 radios as anything). 3 or 4 sinks, all silted up. Opens up into a wide water channel, long dry, with sand scarps. Radio short range warning at about 400m, long range at ~1km (line of sight) – a little disappointing. In the centre of the valley is a large pool, with scattered animals around (mules, cows, horses). After checking out several ‘cow shelter’ caves on the north side of the valley, Bill made friends with a local horse, and we left the valley at about 13:15. Good progress back was made until we found ourselves on an ascending path and decided to take the more direct route back to Tornería shown on the map. Unfortunately all signs of the path petered out near the first peak, the mist came down, and we were forced to retreat down the side of the hill to rejoin the original path. Much rough limestone and many grikes were crossed, in a ‘classic’ struggle... Eventually get back at the car at 15:30; 5½ hours walking. Bill feels stiff all evening. Early dinner at Siete Puertas; soup for Bill, escalope for Mike. An early night.
24.07	Toyu river entrance (24.07) Reconnaissance to Suarias. Located Cabañuca entrance (305m, see log) then checked out the sink in the adjacent huge depression to see if it had opened up since 1973 (it hadn’t). La Hermida for lunch, then a thorough exploration of the nearby old hotel and spa, with its early 20th century signal and lighting wiring. Then to La Fuente, where sadly the old bar no longer exists. On to Toyu (now signposted Sumidero de Toyo) to relocate and photograph entrances. Back to Llanes for a late dinner.
25.07	This year being the 25th anniversary of Forcau ’76, it was time to head for the mountains. Off to the Lakes (Los Lagos); on arrival, soon spotted some GB caver vehicles, guarded by John Wilcock of 1961 OUCC fame. After a chat, headed south at 12:15. Forcau Entrance Careful map- and compass-work, as the mist came down, got us to Forcau entrance (see picture) at about 14:30. It is exactly where it is shown on the latest maps: down-slope and a little further away from El Forcau (the walking path pass) than the stone walls/pens. Eventually back to Llanes to enjoy 25 minutes of air-raid sirens as a statue was paraded to the church.
26.07	First to a cave, El Cuelebre, near Purón, and explored until too muddy. A walk on La Franca beach, then lunch at recommended Casa Pancho in Puertas de Vidiango (Cecina, chorizo, patatas, good tinto, 900pts). (Just in time, it turned out; it was partly demolished by a lorry a few months later.) Whiled away the rest of the day with walks near Llanes and the slightly disappointing Naves fiesta.
27.07	Now ‘warmed up’ – it’s time for some serious caving. A prompt start and we are soon in the Deva Gorge, at the Coto de El Infierno. Changed at the bottom of the hill, then sweated up through hostile brush, around the ridge, to the entrance of Pozo del Infierno at 264m. Bill in Pozo del Infierno The first muddy ramp, immediately inside the conglomerate entrance, was rigged with an 18m rope, with just 3m to spare. On through a large chamber between two stalagmite bosses and eventually to the top of the second, near-vertical ramp. This is effectively a 10m pitch; we used a 20m rope belayed higher up. Leaving most of our gear at the bottom (see picture) the height just lost is regained via an easy climb on the right. Next is a huge muddy chamber, over 30m high, with mudslides and vast stalagmites. Following the trickle of water leads to the Tubo del Viento, which wasn’t very windy. This is followed by a slightly exposed climb (handline useful) up and on to the Sala del Riu (River Chamber), with a beautiful clear deep blue inlet sump and clean, almost black, rocks. A rope (marked G.E.S. 18,77) hanging into the chamber confirmed the way on (which we climbed in 1975). We had not expected the pitch to be rigged, so had left jammers at the 2nd ramp. Nevertheless satisfied with the progress achieved, we proceeded out. Jammers & footloops were sufficient for the ramps. About 3 hours in the cave; 45 minutes down the hill compared to 90 minutes up.
28.07	A slow day, washing ropes etc. Checked altitudes around El Mazuco. Discovered that Antonio (1973 caver from Rales) now runs a restaurant in Llanes – so, pizza and tacos for supper. Then to the old Talleru (now Abezu) for a Piña Collada; slow to arrive as they had to go next door to get it...
29.07	Inland to Arenas where we inspected cheeses and successfully tracked down a cow bell with just the right sound. Photo tour of Llanes; packing; dinner at Casa Poli in Vidiago.
30.07	East to Castro Urdiales via Vargas. Reconnaissance 4km up track beyond Cubilla to explore a depression near Linares on foot. No open cave, but a secondary sink had a good draught (good dig).
31.07	Drive through hot, humid, and polluted Bilbao to the new airport. Yet again Mike’s caving gear goes AWOL on the way back, arriving the following day. Bill checks out more caves and the Gugenheim museum.

Personnel: Bill Collis & Mike Cowlishaw.

Other log details:
Altitudes of various places and passes (adjusted for sea level calibration in log), including:

Sangazo	62m
Saddle	178
​Cubilla col	~210
Car parking	195	(by track to cave)
Cubilla	90	(lowest point reached)
Cubilla	187	(highest point reached)
West inlet	~140	(lowest point)
Top of Penilla track	227
Cubilla Entrance	155
Alto de Tornería	475m
Bar El Mazuco	362
Caldueñín	165
Villa	244
Cortines bridge	130
El Sucón bar	120
Posada	58

This page was last edited on 2010-06-30 by mfc.