The Battle of
 El Mazuco

Expedition log, Summer 2000

A summary and index of the Speleogroup logbook.

Fuente Dé, Tinganón, Fuentica, etc.

Date	Activity
04.07	It is eleven years since the last Speleogroup expedition to Spain; we meet, as in the past, at Bilbao airport (15:47). Just a few minutes later we set off west towards Castro on the new autovia (toll free!). Soon, a sign to Otañes beckons us into the Eucalyptus Forest and so to the bar for our first tinto in a long while. Regular readers of these journals will recall that this road ought to lead to the famous Cueva del Sangazo filmed by OUCC in 1966. Since then things have changed. We are older. And the countryside has been industrialized and holiday villas have been built. “This looks promising”, said Bill. “Yes that’s definitely the road”, said Bill. “Let’s take that short cut”, said Bill. The short cut got narrower – no chance of turning – then became a backyard – and then finally a field. At last a chance to turn around! The amused farmer set us in the right direction, which is: Take the road from Castro Urdiales up the hill towards Goriezo and then turn left down the road opposite the turning to Montealegre. This turning leads down to some (new) houses where it is possible to park. Track on the right leads slightly up then left and down towards the head of the valley where the cave lies. Several athletic gate-vaults (and close shaves with barbed wire) caused not too much damage, and found us at the resurgence. [See 2003 log for location, and local name of the cave: Lastrilla.] A short incursion tested our latest gadget – a 3-LED lamp – in the resurgence and almost out of daylight; we then visited the upper entrances – only to find them sealed with welded bars and a solidly padlocked gate. But no insects! Honour satisfied, a dignified retreat was beat into Castro Urdiales, where we found the Hostal Vista Alegre for a very reasonable 6000pts/person/night. Tapas (fresh sardines) and menú (cocina montagnes, bonito, salmon) rounded out the day; back to the hotel after a wander around the streets.
05.07	Leisurely start, with much of the day spent driving west to Llanes, arriving in time for lunch (at Uria) 13:30. Tourist office moved to the tower four years ago. Afternoon spent refreshing memories of local places and roads – Pancar (El Retiro), Posada, Rales, Barro, and around the town in Llanes (Puerto Chico, El Brau). Then located hotels (two needed as first fully booked after two days: Los Rocas for 2 nights, then Los Molinos. Dinner at “the first on the left in the tourist alley”. Mike suffering from effects of a bad cold caught in London. Sun, then clouds and showers.
06.07	It’s Thursday, so with the promise of good weather (and the first tourist weekend of the season starting the following day), we decide to head for the high mountains. So, off on the long drive (80 km +) to Fuente Dé. By the time we got there (11:15) the last wisps of mist had cleared, and the queue for the Teleférico was gratifyingly short. [1300 pts each.] Hot and sunny at the bottom, but a strong breeze on alighting at the top – eliciting the Quote of the Day from Bill: “I’m glad I kept my trousers on!”. Perfect walking weather (though hard to keep hats on), so we set off on the track to the Refugio Aliva, arriving in time for some lunch. Returned to the Teleférico via a different route; fantastic views on the way down. Max altitude 1962 m. Roman Bridge at Cangas Set off back north, with short stops at Bejes and La Hermida (at the latter, the base for the 1973 expedition, the bar seemed to have been completely rebuilt) and on to Panes. Then west along the Cares to Arenas and Cangas (with a stop in Cangas to view the ‘Roman’ Bridge, right). It being about dinner time, we decided to check out the menu del día at an old haunt – San Remo in Arriondas – only to find the restaurant has now been replaced by a bus station. Not an improvement! Thwarted, we continue on to Ribadesella, where we had good Hake for 1000 pts as part of the menu del día at Rte. Las Vegas; an English couple sitting nearby provided amusement. Finally – back to Llanes.
07.07	Bill in Tinganon Our last breakfast at Las Rocas at 09:00, then we loaded up the car with luggage and off down the “Autovia” 28 km to Llovio. The old road to the Tinganón farm had been blocked by the autovia dual carriageway (doble calzadas), so a new route had to be found. We greeted the farmer and proceeded up the meadow towards the stream. Greeted a couple of Spanish ramblers. It took about another 30 minutes of easy but sweaty walking to arrive at the always impressive lower entrance to Tinganón, at 11:30 (total walk time 45 minutes). At first we decided, in true novice fashion, not to get our feet wet. But after risking life and limb on very minor climbs around the pools in the narrow sections of the streamway, Bill followed Mike’s example of wading into the water. This made things much easier – and also regulated the temperature. At the top entrance Bill removed the batteries from his 3-LED torch to power the camera. Took photos of enormous stalagmite > 4m high. After the inlet we descended the other tributary making a round trip. Much easier descending! After 1½ hours in the cave we met the ramblers at the lower entrance. Now for the second through trip of the day! Off to Las Cuevas where we drove through La Cuevona before lunch at Mesón Miño in Ribadesella (Fabada and Merluza a la Romana menú) 1000pts each – excellent quality and value. A lazy afternoon, then dinner at Rte. Muelles (next to the bridge) which has been transformed ‘up-market’ with an extensive wine list and regional dishes. We had escallopines de venada (thin veal in a light batter with mushrooms and cream sauce), washed down with Pesquera. Very good – although sadly it no longer serves the area’s best flan.
08.07	Festering day, though we did visit Rales, El Mazuco (new bar), and Meré, where a fiesta was in progress.
09.07	To Rales again, caving this time. Fuentica, happily without the squalid entrance pools. Eventually forced to beat a retreat due to deep water, near the pitch. Mike manages to impale a rib (in his back, this time) on a sharp rock while negotiating a small climb on a side exploration. Back out, and lunch in Rales. After the strenuous caving, we planned to reward ourselves with dinner at El Horno at Buelna, but it, too, proved to be closed and for sale. So, to El Retiro for a rather average meal (anchovies, and cooked meats for Bill).
10.07	Woke up to heavy rain, so we thought we’d try and get above it and walk up to Vega el Forcau (see 1976), above Los Lagos. Once up there, though, the clouds were still above us, yet were well below Forcau altitude, so a quick retreat after a look around. Many changes at the lakes: no camping at Ercina, new paved paths, the Refugio is closed, huge new carpark at Enol, etc. Bill has been feeling unwell since the previous evening’s meal. Back to Llanes to recuperate and a long walk along the cliffs for Mike. Dinner at Uria (Truchas and delicious Chuletillas de Lechazo).
11.07	Plan A (Cueva Pindal) quicky revised due to a massive traffic jam on the autovia. Plan B: to walk the Cares gorge. Arrived Camarmeña 10:15, before the road became blocked. A good walk to the highest point of the traverse, at which point clouds and rain were closing in so we returned to the car. Next we took the road to Sotres – spectacular scenery – where a cerveza was much appreciated. Back to Arenas for lunch (chicken soup for poorly Bill). Stopped on the way North West to explore a promising cave by the road (visible from lower down the hill). Flat and dry inside, and a ‘view to die for’ from the entrance. Mike explores (it didn’t go) and eventually gets back to the car, only to find he was not alone in the cave, and had picked up dozens of biting ‘friends’, who were obviously missing their goats. First attempts to dislodge them, at the Rales spring, failed. Back to the hotel, where full submersion in hot water eventually eradicated them, except for one or two lurking in Bill’s car... Dinner in a new Llanes restaurant: Siete Puertas. Comfortable, if a little touristy. Good food.
12.07	Bill feeling very ill, so we cancelled trip to Pozo del Infierno. Bill reappears briefly to watch Mike eat lunch, then again at 17:00 when we head for the new Ethnographic museum of Porrúa. Dinner at Muelle again.
13.07	Time to head East. Looked at Laredo, but ended up in Castro Urdiales. Bill actually eats lunch! Off to check whether Sangazo stream exit is accessible (it isn’t), then up the Guriezo road to look for Cueva de la Penilla (Cubilla), the sink for the Sangazo stream. After some exploring, we soon found a track down to the 60-70m high cliff and impressive cave entrance. We explored as far as seemed reasonable in everyday clothes. Excellent expedition dinner in corner of the Castro square, by the port.
14.07	Had a little trouble finding the new Bilbao airport, but Mike made it home (followed by his caving gear, two days later).

Personnel: Bill Collis & Mike Cowlishaw.

Other log details: Exchange rate 180-ish pesetas/GBP.
Hotels: Castro 6000pts/night, Las Rocas 6000-8000, Los Molinos 7000.

This page was last edited on 2010-01-11 by mfc.